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Saturday, November 7, 2009

Retrospective Part 1

I call this post retrospective because i am trying to get everything caught up on this blog. My goal is to be able to add a post everyday.

So.....up until this point we have been very fortunate in starting our line. There have been many people that have helped us out and want us to succeed in this endeavor and i think we will. Starting your own business is difficult when you have no budget, starting a fashion line is even more difficult! There are tons of things that can go wrong and everything is very costly.

The most expensive part about doing a collection is the development. It costs a ton of money and mistakes are almost guaranteed to happen. We have the knowledge to be able to do most of the work ourselves like i said before, so its a huge help!

We began by creating an idea...a mood for the clothing.

When i had my job in the industry i worked for a woman who did not understand clothing and/or fashion the way i did. The first meeting i had with her she told me that art has no place in fashion!!.............i kind of chuckled because i thought she was joking......she wasn't. I mean are you kidding me?????? Fashion is inspired by so many things art, feelings, landscapes, etc. anyone can pull anything from their surroundings and create an idea.

I am from a studio art background........ i really enjoyed painting, sculpture, etc. Originally i wanted to be an art therapist, using art as a tool to deal with emotions, feelings, expression, etc. work through issues. That is what art was to me, a way to express myself. Unfortunately, the art world is not about that completely, at least in my opinion. I mean yes...there are artists who really express themselves through their art, but they are always trying to make it marketable and alot of times i feel the art is too opinionated. Art was never a way for me to try and use as a platform for my views or opinions on issues, it was purely a way to express my emotions into a composition and organize them in that way. During critiques i was always ripped on because my work was never trying to persuade people to think a certain way, they did not understand the meaning behind it. As a result, i decided that art was something i should leave as something i do for myself and not a career. I still wanted to find a creative field and i have always loved fashion and the quality of work that goes into it.

So, back on track........

We began with a mood......the idea was something that was comfortable, easy-to-wear, and sophisticated. After realizing the "characteristics" or mood of what we wanted to create we continued on by sourcing fabric. We found this really fantastic quality of jersey we could use for our collection. (BTW, fabric sourcing is a BITCH and one of the hardest things you have to encounter when first starting out) We wanted to keep everything simple as far as the colors go so we started with three colors the main colors were black, grey and an off-white, we used a beige color as sort of a complimentary color or something to add a bit of "depth" to the collection. We worked really hard to find a supplier that did not work on minimums. In this industry people want volume

We now had a focus of what we wanted to achieve with the mood....... drape, cut of fabric, etc. So we began to design, after some elimination and a couple of discussions we decided which pieces would become part of the collection.

Now we really had to start working........ugh.

We set off doing our patterns and creating muslins for our samples. We sewed the muslins out of really cheap jersey, we just wanted to see if the patterns we made were true to the design we wanted and if the fit was good. This is when my friend Courtney came in, we were able to have her put everything on and check the look and fit.

Once we corrected the mistakes for the pattern we could create the first samples, all this costs alot of money if you have to pay someone else to do it.

Paying to have patterns made is a large expense, be prepared to pay at least 200 dollars for a pattern, and sometimes the design can look perfect on paper, but once realized in fabric it could look awful.

After all the corrections were done we got the fabric we would use for our garments and sewed the final samples together!


So....now that we had the samples we had to find a way to get them photographed. NETWORK! NETWORK! NETWORK!!!! There are plenty of talented people out there trying to find their way and begin their careers. We were extremely lucky to find an amazingly gifted photographer with a fantastic eye! He was looking to add more fashion shots to his book and was happy to take on the shooting of our lookbook!! My friend Candace agreed to model for us for the shoot!!! She did an amazing job!! The shoot lasted for 10 1/2 hours and she did not complain even once!!! She looked fantastic!!

Once the photos were done we had to create a website. Much like other things in this experience, I had to figure out how to do a website...we could not afford to pay someone to do it.

Monday, October 5, 2009

Pattern Making

A good pattern is an essential part of the fashion collection, obviously. The best way to begin developing your label is to first develop your basic slopers. Slopers are basic patterns which are used as a basis to create any design you can think up! It is important to decide the measurements you will use for your patterns and create these basic patterns to reflect those measurements. It is extremely helpful for a designer to know and have a good understanding of patterns and how they are made. I have worked with "designers" in the past (not saying names) that had no idea about patterns or how they were created. These types of designers are a blessing and curse for the professional pattern maker. Blessing because since they do not know what they are doing they can often be overcharged and taken advantage of (although i would never do that to anyone)........Curse because the designer more times than not has no idea what they want and they think of designs that are not possible to create the way they would like. If you want to be a good designer get a good education and understanding of patterns...I mean an architect has to have some understanding of how a house is built to be able to design it right?...it's no difference. KNOW YOUR SHIT. People will not be able to take advantage of you and you will be legit.
There are also some great books to learn about patterns, aside from school:
1) Patternmaking for Fashion Design by Joseph-Armstrong ( fabrics w/out stretch a.k.a. wovens)
2) Design and Patternmaking for Stretch fabrics by Keith Richardson (stretch fabrics)

Beginnings

We created a great way of designing our collection, in my opinion. Each of us could come up with our own designs and then we would meet and discuss what we came up with. We have very complimentary styles when we design and it was a relief to see that everything came together as a collection quite easily. We discussed, critiqued and edited our work to create our first collection. Possessing an education and knowledge of pattern making has been a huge help for our success to date, pattern makers make good cash in this industry and it will be one of your biggest costs in sample development. We split the work, Diego did some of the patterns and i did the rest. We bought some cheap jersey to use as muslin and began cutting out the first muslins......They did not turn out that bad!!! Of course, there were some changes that needed to be made, but overall we were quite pleased. We were on our way, but the work was just getting started.

How We Got Started

I had been let go from my previous job as a fashion designer here in New York from a womenswear label. Unfortunately, it was at a time when the economy was on its way to hell and at the time NO ONE was hiring in the fashion industry! Diego was let go from his job around the same time due to economics as well, his store closed completely.
While trying to find a job i worked to keep myself busy and current with what was going on in the fashion industry. It's an exciting industry and it changes so much it is sometimes hard too keep up with all the changes. I decided to "revamp" my portfolio and began working on new collections, in order to keep my portfolio up to date.
I decided, after many attempts to try and find a job, to start "doing my own thing." One thing about a crappy economy is that it acts as a toilet. Sometimes..... people with no aesthetic or design sensibility, or sense of style acquire a large amount of money to design and create their own label. I am not sure how it happens (not bitter here) and i do not know why it is allowed by the universe, but what can you do. Anyway, unfortunately for these previously described folks their end usually comes during a time when the economy is not doing so well and consumers start to think about how they are spending their money.
I hate to admit it, but although clothing is a social necessity (thankfully) fashion is not, at least not for everyone. I personally believe fashion is born from a basic, somewhat primitive desire that humans have to adorn themselves and to create a sense of self. People view clothing two ways: some people just view it as a means to cover their ass, which is the necessity. Alternatively, some people (fashion people) see clothing as a way to create their own identity, create a sense of beauty, attract others or as a social status. I'm down with the creating of one's own identity and sense of beauty, i am NOT, however, down with viewing clothing as a social status. I get it.....i just don't support it. I think that people who put too much emphasis on fashion and clothing as a social status tend to be petty, insecure and more times than not have no sense of style and everything to lose.
As a result, in regards to fashion, I concentrate on design, quality and utility. I figure if you view fashion in this way you can reach more people. You get all the types, people who like to create a sense of identity through the designs they wear, beauty from the quality of the garment and it's execution and if you have good design and quality you automatically fill the requirement of utility and wearability.
So yeah......side tracked there for a sec...anyway, i figured that now would be a great time to start my own thing. During an economy like this, labels that are not generating enough income begin to go out of business, which creates space for new and emerging "talent" to come in and try to situate themselves in the market. It is a fantastic time for people who can "make it happen" during a bad economy. Creating a collection is expensive and alot of hard work, people who are not in the industry just do not realize the amount of organization, timing and planning that goes into a collection.
I knew i needed help and the fact i had no money was no help either, however, i knew if i had a partner we could really get it together. Since Diego had recently lost his job i approached him about this opportunity. I knew Diego would be committed, reliable and would work just as hard as i would, plus he also knew how to do patterns and is a very talented designer. Upon his agreement we set out to begin our collection!!!

The Players



Jaunt is a women's cut and sew collection originally thought of by me, jeremy Freeze. It is owned and operated by myself and my business partner Diego Vela. We are responsible for creating all of the designs, making all the patterns, sewing all the samples and selling the collection. Oh and we also do all the production and distribution. Its a ton of work, but can be a very rewarding experience (supposedly, when things start to take off)! hehe. This blog is an attempt to share our development and setbacks with people who are interested in the fashion industry and want to know the steps to creating their own label! FASHION IS NOT GLAMOROUS! I will try to keep it as current as possible. I am starting this blog about 5 months after we started working on the line so i will get everyone caught up-to-date with where we are now. Hope you enjoy it!